My Insider’s Guide to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence (After Spending One Month There)
Everything about this little town in the south of France is art. From the (very!) cutely displayed storefronts and poets writing in the square, to the cheeses sprinkled with flowers and the singers performing dans la rue, it’s easy to understand why Van Gogh and so many other great artists developed such a deep connection to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.
Simply being here makes you want to create something. To write, paint, draw, cook, take photographs or simply sit and daydream. Choosing to spend my second month in Provence here after my first in Aix-en-Provence was an intuitive decision, and it turned out to be an enjoyably slow, calm and wonderfully creative four weeks.
With the centre being completely off-limits to cars, this provincial town rewards casual strolling along its cobblestone streets and market stalls, popping in and out of charming little shops, stopping for a goûter, listening to the buskers, watching onlookers dance, seeing a poet put thoughts to paper while an artist does the same in sketches. On almost any day of the week, these are the kinds of little moments you’re bound to experience . It truly is a feast for the creative in all of us.
After a lovely one month long stay in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, these are the places I found myself returning to again and again and I hope this post gives you a little head start on planning your own trip.
Things to Do in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Have a full market experience
I was fortunate enough for my Airbnb to be right on the doorstep of the main market, which comes to town every Wednesday. And I really mean right on the doorstep. I’d step outside and my eyes would be met with vendors selling fresh fruit and vegetables, cheeses and olives, flowers, art and everything in between.
My ears would catch the sound of a busker singing a sweet French melody on a nearby corner, while my nose filled with the smell of fresh delicacies being cooked just a few steps away. I absolutely loved market days, and I have no doubt you will too.
There’s also a smaller market on Saturdays, but if you can, try to plan your visit so it overlaps with a Wednesday. It’s when Saint-Rémy feels at its liveliest, and in my opinion, it’s the very best way to experience the town.
Personal tip: It was in this town that I came across this instagram video on how to cook scrambled eggs like a Michelin star chef. I picked up the ingredients in the market, followed it step by step and lo and behold… they honestly were the best scrambled eggs I’ve ever eaten and I’ve been making them this way ever since. Perhaps you could make it your own little culinary challenge while you’re here too. 🙂
Visit Saint Paul de Mausole
This former monastery turned psychiatric asylum is perhaps best known for its most famous patient, Vincent van Gogh, who admitted himself here in 1889 and stayed for a year. It was known as one of the most difficult periods of his life, but also one of his most creative. Inspired by the surrounding landscapes, he painted masterpieces such as Irises and several of his self-portraits during his time here.
Today, you can visit his former room, see the treatments used at the time, and wander through the peaceful, beautifully tended gardens. I think what I loved most was simply walking the grounds, knowing I was surrounded by the very scenery that inspired some of Van Gogh’s most iconic paintings.
Go to a hidden lake
If you’re in the mood for a picnic, there’s a hidden lake just outside of town called Lac du Peirou, known mostly to locals. I’d spent the first couple of weeks in Saint-Rémy working quite a lot (admittedly more than I’d wanted to), and found myself needing a little reminder of what working for myself is really about… or more specifically, the freedom and flexibility that comes with it.
So one morning, I closed my laptop, put everything aside and headed somewhere I knew 4G wouldn’t reach. I thought for sure I was about to star in a sequel to 127 Hours getting there. If you decide to visit, please don’t do what I did and turn up in jeans and slip-on shoes thinking it’s just a leisurely walk.
You will be scrambling over rocks, holding onto metal chains and handles for dear life as you make your way up (and back down again!). It turned out to be much more of a hike than I’d expected… but it was completely worth it. In fact, it became my favourite place to spend a quiet afternoon away from everyone and everything. My only thought when I left each time was, “I wish I’d found this place sooner.”
Where to Eat, Drink & Shop in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Colette Café
Great coffee, delicious lattes, lovely people and a warm, intimate atmosphere. It’s one of those cafés that, if you’re in town for a little while, will very quickly become part of your daily routine.
Le Bistrot de Saint-Rémy
If you choose to eat here, please order the escargots… and if there are a few of you, the cheese platter too. They will not disappoint. It’s such a cosy spot and, to me, feels like Provençal charm at its finest.
La Maison Favier
There’s nothing that quite says “I’m in Provence” like sitting outside in a relaxed square, surrounded by people eating, drinking and enjoying each other’s company. The atmosphere here is absolutely lovely and I had a few wonderful evenings here. That said, there are actually several beautiful restaurants around this square, so I’d simply recommend heading this way and letting your intuition guide you to a table.
Bistro Les Pieds dans l’Eau
I’d describe this one as a bit of an all-rounder. It’s equally lovely for lunch, dinner or simply stopping by for a drink in the evening. There’s a beautiful, peaceful courtyard tucked away at the back, while the front fills with people gathering for apéritifs as the day winds down. I came here several times during my month in Saint-Rémy and the atmosphere in this chateau-like building was charming every time.
Le Village Saint-Rémy
There’s a lady I’ve followed on Instagram for years who spends her time uncovering the most beautiful French décor at flea markets. She later started her own brand, Les Six, and you can now find pieces inside Le Village. I only WISH I could have gotten to see the collection in person but if you’re someone who loves vintage homeware, please have a little look for both of us!
Where to Stay in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
I actually spent the month in an Airbnb that was wonderfully cosy, beautifully decorated and felt a bit like staying in a French grandmother’s attic. Sadly though, my experience with the hosts meant I didn’t leave feeling comfortable enough to recommend it here. If I were planning a return trip to Saint-Rémy, these are the four places I’d be choosing between instead.
For something a little more luxurious, I’d choose either La Maison du Village (old town elegance with a secret garden) or Hôtel de Tourrel. And for something a little more mid-range, without sacrificing any of the Provençal charm, I’d look at Hôtel Gounod or Le Regardeur. Have a little look through each of them and see which one feels most like you.
Extra tip (for french learners)
If you’re planning on staying a little longer and would like to practise your French, this one’s for you. One day I spontaneously popped into English for French, a local language school, and asked if they happened to know anyone who might like to do a language exchange while I was in town.
The teacher kindly invited me into the class that was taking place there and then, where I introduced myself and asked if anyone was interested. That’s how I ended up meeting a local called Robin. Several times a week we’d meet up, spending half our time speaking only French and the other half only English. Sometimes the best opportunities really are the ones you create.
If you’re heading to St Rémy soon, then you’re in for a real treat (in more ways than one) and I truly hope these cafés, hidden corners and local experiences, along with a few personal stories from my time there, help make your trip just as beautiful.
