Palermo: The Insider Tips I Wish I’d Had Before I Went
Did my friend and I enjoy eating arancini and cannoli every day and trying new street foods (panelle & cazzilli)? Strong yes (I’m definitely in team “travel to Italy just for the food”). But I have to be honest and say… I didn’t love Palermo.
It’s an energetic city, but it just wasn’t a personal energetic match for me this time. Some might put that down to it perhaps being too chaotic, but I don’t actually think that was it. (For reference, I loved Naples, which could easily be considered Palermo’s louder, bigger and even more chaotic older sibling). I think a big part of it came down to how I experienced the city.
It was a bit of a last-minute, spontaneous (and short) two day trip, and I simply didn’t have the time beforehand to do what I usually love doing ~ diving deep into research, uncovering the lesser-known spots and building a little list of places that feel more local.
Instead, I found myself doing something I rarely do: searching in real time where to eat, what to do and wandering between the same places everyone else was finding online. Have you ever had that happen?
Usually, when I travel, I’m lucky enough to spend months in one place. It gives me the time to wander away from the obvious, get recommendations from locals and slowly discover the authentic side of somewhere. This time, I didn’t have that luxury. And I think because of that, I left feeling like I hadn’t really met the real Palermo.
As I was packing my suitcase on my final evening, ready for an early flight the next morning, I received a message from my Instagram friend Laura, who had previously lived in Palermo. Inside were all her recommendations. The recommendations I wishhhhh I’d had a few days earlier.
So while it was sadly too late for me to enjoy them myself, I would’ve happily visited every single one because, as we all know by now… recommendations from someone who’s actually lived somewhere are like gold dust.
So, for once, I’m not going to share my own discoveries from Palermo… because, truthfully, I didn’t find the hidden gems I was hoping to.
Instead, I’d love to pass on a few from Laura’s own list, complete with google map links, in case you’re planning a trip yourself. I hope they help you experience a side of Palermo that I simply didn’t have enough time to find.
Where to stay:
First in her list was L’Olivella Bed & Breakfast, a little family-run B&B. The photos alone make it look beautiful, but what really caught my attention was that the reviews all seemed to say the same thing.
Spotlessly clean, full of character, in a fantastic location and, above all, a host who goes out of their way to make guests feel genuinely welcome. Finding all of those qualities together isn’t always easy, which is exactly why I’m guessing she saved this one.
My friend and I actually stayed somewhere called B&B Benincasa which was perfectly okay as a base, budget-friendly, good location (and I did love the beautifully painted ceiling in our room!), but I do think there are more beautiful options and if I was to return to Palermo, I’d try somewhere different.
Where to eat:
Friggitoria Chiluzzo: This looks like exactly the kind of place I’d naturally gravitate towards. A humble, affordable little spot serving Palermo’s holy trinity of fried street food: panelle (chickpea fritters), crocchè (potato croquettes) and, of course, arancine.
What I love most, though is that this doesn’t seem to be somewhere that’s become a “must-visit” for tourists. From everything I’ve read, it’s simply part of the neighbourhood.
The kind of place where local school kids stop after class, older locals pop in for lunch and life carries on around it. Those are always the spots I’m hoping to find when I travel.
Cioccolateria Lorenzo: Another thing I’m always on the lookout for, especially in bigger cities, is a peaceful little refuge away from the noise. From Laura’s recommendation, this family-run café looks like exactly that.
Tucked away around a beautiful little courtyard, it seems like the kind of place where you can pause for an hour with a coffee and a slice of cake, while the city carries on around you. Those slower moments are often the ones I end up appreciating (and remembering) most from a trip.
Ecologica Bistrot: I ate so many arancine during my few days in Palermo, I genuinely lost count… and I’m not mad about it haha. BUT I would have also loved to balance them out with a fresh, healthy meal too. From Laura’s recs, Ecologica Bistrot looks like the perfect place to do exactly that.
Serving seasonal produce sourced from Sicilian farms, it seems like a lovely option if you’re looking for something a little lighter, especially if you’re vegetarian, vegan or gluten-free.
Le Galleria: The reviews are full of comments describing it as “truly authentic” with consistently great food and from the photos alone it looks exactly like the kind of cosy, old-school restaurant I’d naturally gravitate towards when choosing somewhere to eat.
Unique Stores
Edizioni Precarie: If there’s one thing that’s almost guaranteed to catch my eye when I travel, it’s little independent shops like this. This artisan studio creates beautiful notebooks, recipe books and prints using authentic food wrapping paper rescued from Palermo’s historic markets and I just love the idea of giving something that would’ve otherwise been thrown away a completely new life. If anything is going to catch my eye to bring home, it would be something original like this and I would have loved to have a little browse inside.
Libreria Easyreader: I’m a big fan of vintage stores and independent bookshops and this little cutie is both in one. Managed by two sisters, this small shop really looks like an intimate, well curated treasure chest and again, it would have been such a pleasure to have stepped inside.
If you’re heading to Palermo, I truly hope this little list comes in handy and that you have the most beautiful time!
